Ingenuity is an inseparable part of the culinary industry – provided, of course, that it makes sense.
For Maozi Xifa, the combination of its name (which translates as ‘hat trick’), its logo (a top hat with a fish for the brim) and its interior (riveted leather furniture with graffiti of Spiderman and the Hulk) makes for a muddled mess of motifs.
Located just above Bosphorus, the new venue has completely transformed Salala’s loft-like appeal and replaced it with a secluded, nautical wonderland of nude mermaids and neon signs screaming “GRILLED FISH.”
Confusing themes aside, it was relatively clear one should order something from the sea. Grass carp (RMB128), basa (RMB158) and sea bass (RMB168) are the only options, but come with a choice of 13 different sauces from regions across China, including a sour Guizhou broth and spicy Chongqing gumbo.
Maozi’s menu is all in Chinese, save for a few overarching categories like ‘fish’ and ‘beer’ – the latter of which became very useful once we spotted Kronenbourg 1664 for the incredible price of RMB28.
A quick trip to the bar will offer a visual display of labels on tap. Vedett and Liefmans Fruitesse (both RMB28) or a 5-liter barrel of Henniger (RMB268) are among the promising options.
The fish takes around 20 minutes to prepare, so order a few rounds of barbecued lamb skewers (RMB26/five), mantou (RMB16/three) and eggplant (RMB16) while you wait.
For mains, the Maozi fried rice (RMB23) is expertly sauteed with bits of squid, shrimp, carrots, egg and scallions.
The main course – served in a massive iron trough full of smoldering hot peppers on chili oil on sea bass – is theatrically delivered, to say the least.
It’s hard to gain a visual on the fish until digging in, at which point white, flaky flesh emerges from the depths of a marsh-like stew.
On the tail end of Chinese New Year, Maozi was devoid of customers, though it’s likely that had nothing to do with the holiday. A few waitresses explained the owner hasn’t made any promotional efforts yet.
“I’m not really sure what he’s doing,” one staff member piped up, shyly.
And neither do we.
Price: RMB100
Who’s going: Awkward blind dates, misinformed magicians
Good for: Imported beer for a steal, huge portions of fish
See listing for Maozi Xifa here.
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